Handmade Chains: What to Look for When Buying One
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What to look for in a handmade chain
Handmade Chain: What to Look for When Buying One
Coming from someone who is extremely passionate about my work, which is in part making chains from raw materials, and who's attention to detail can sometimes be crippling, I wanted to share some basic things that I, as a maker, pay attention to, and things that you, as a client, should consider as well.
This article will equip you with knowledge that will allow you to differentiate a quality piece from an inferior one, that can sometimes even pose as structurally sound and reliable jewelry. I also give you some tips on what is in your power to verify the legitimacy of the vendor or person you want to purchase from, to minimize risk to you and your hard earned earnings.
Measurements-
If you are not familiar with measurements that are commonly used in jewelry, then I strongly suggest having a measuring tape or a ruler, something that you can reference to while looking at chains. Photos can and are deceiving: a micro 1mm chain can be made to look like 10mm. Always ensure to check the size of links so there are no surprises upon delivery.
Quality-
The way I check for durability and stability is the most basic but crucial step: permanently closed (soldered) links. This means that there is no gap visible where the links close. The way it is done is by soldering the joints, meaning we use the same type of metal as the chain but with a lower melting point to melt it into place so when you accidentally pull on it & it will not bend the links.
Another method I can imagine in the handmade world would be to use a welder to close the links, which essentially does the same thing: add metal to the joint to permanently close it.
Below is an example of my chain where I have not yet soldered the links. Take a note of the gaps accompanied by the pinks arrows.
The two photos below are NOT MINE and I have cropped out any potential identifiers for the purpose of showing you how these un-soldered joints may look on other chains, that can potentially cause the links to open and may lead to loss and damage of the jewelry.
This photo below is my chain after I had soldered the open gaps, with pink arrows pointing to the molten metal that still needs to be cleaned up.
Very important note: some chains are made to have joints that are not soldered, however in my personal opinion it should be clearly stated in the product description to allow the consumer to make the choice considering the risks. It's also crucial if you're making a purchase from a shop that does not allow returns. At HVJ I give you a minimum of 3 business days from the recorded day of delivery to return an already made item if for some reason you don’t like it (does not include custom orders)
Some quick and less elaborated on points:
Who made it? The reason for this question is to ensure that it is not being handmade overseas, potentially unethical practices (unless you are shopping for product overseas of course).
I like to see at least a couple photos of work in progress. Some chains can be purchased from suppliers and be resold as handmade. Or at least see other work in progress of the maker you're thinking of purchasing from.
Price: it takes a long time to form every single jumpring, assemble them, solder the joints, clean, polish and much more. If it looks too good to be true, it most likely is.
As with any type of jewelry purchase, make sure the company or person you're purchasing from is credible. My suggestion is to see if they have some kind of social media account, or even send them an email to make sure that ways of communication are open and you get a human response. You can also inquire about the quality and return/refund policy or even location while you're at it.
Because I make my chains from start to finish (besides most clasps/chain extenders), I am able to modify every single aspect of the process. If you have a vision of a perfect chain but have not been able to find one on the market, I'd be happy to work with you and put together the perfect combination of links for a chain that can be passed down for generations.
My chains in the photos are made in silver, however other metals such as gold are also an option.
Types of clasps
Almost all of my oval/paperclip links were made with mandrels from lionpunchforge.com, an amazing small business.
If you're looking for some ready-made, quality chains, check some of mine out right here
If you have any questions, comments, concerns, feedback or ideas, please email me at halyna@hvjewelry.com
To inquire about a custom order click here
FAQ
Q: What solder do you use to solder the links?
A: I use hard solder to ensure longevity and sturdiness.
Q: How small of a chain can you work with?
A: I can typically work with 1.5mm/21 gauge and up.