Argentium Silver Jewelry: Everything You Need to Know About This Premium Alloy

I will try to make this post short and sweet but at the same time give you all you need to know about Argentium Silver.

 

I noticed that other blogs use the same wording as the website for Argentium, which was very unoriginal kind of a turn off and for me. So here is some questions I thought you might have about really cool silver.

 

What is Argentium silver?

It is a premium trademarked alloy, typically containing 94% pure silver, 1.2% germanium, and 4.8% copper, making it purer than traditional sterling silver that contains 92.5% pure silver ("925" mark) and 7.5% copper. The germanium is what gives it the property of tarnish resistance.

 

How does it compare to traditional 925 sterling?

Contains more pure silver as mentioned above. It can be worked to have a higher scratch resistance and whiter appearance. It would require less maintenance, since Argentium silver is tarnish resistant.

 

What is the purity mark for Argentium silver jewelry?

My personal mark is "HVJ AS940" since I use 94% pure silver, and the "AS" stands for Argentium Silver. Some others may include: 935, 940, 960, a winged unicorn stamp or laser imprint, which is the unique trademark for Argentium. In the UK, hallmarking may have the unicorn alongside the 925 or 960 marks. It could technically be stamped as 925 since it contains 92.5% silver as a minimum, however many jewelers choose to specify with "Argentium Silver" or "AS" in my case. You must get permission, a trademark license to use and mark the metal.

 

When did it hit the market?

It became available to jewelers in the early 2000's. Original alloy concept was thought of in 1990, and took near a decade to refine for public use. Patent was filed in 1998.

 

Is it more expensive?

Yes, slightly, compared to traditional sterling silver. It contains higher silver content, as well as germanium, which is significantly more expensive than copper as an alloy. Another reason is because it is trademarked, the company must maintain global patents and trademarks. It also has a limited availability because not everyone works or has heard of this metal.

 

Does everyone work with it?

No. You may be able to find some specialized retailers or small jewelers like myself. I did look on Etsy, and they do have some options that look casted, but not hand fabricated (I have a whole blog coming up on this topic next, make sure to leave your email so I can send it to you).

 

Why is there the "R" symbol next to Argentium?

The "R" symbol represents a registered trademark. Before I was allowed to use the name "Argentium", I had to get permission from the company.

 

Do jewelers mix the metals in house or is it purchased?

In order to be able to label your work as Argentium, you must have permission from the company. If a jeweler attempts to mix separately purchased alloys and not purchasing the metal from the company or an authorized retailer, they will be deceiving and misrepresenting their product. I suppose they might claim it's "tarnish resistant", however it will be difficult to measure the precise amounts of the needed metals to create this alloy. I assume it requires an environment and tools/machines that are not readily available to your local jeweler. It would be hard to prove the tarnish resistance.

 

What is germanium and what else is it used for?

Electronics and semiconductors, optics such as lenses, chemistry, and several more.

 

Is it hypoallergenic?

Yes. Argentium silver is often recommended as a hypoallergenic alternative to traditional sterling silver, even for those who have a reaction to traditional sterling. If you have an extreme metal allergy, it is advised to consult with a professional on the safety of wearing Argentium jewelry. I have not found any negative reports while doing my research for this post.

 

Can it be resized or repaired?

Yes. It can be soldered in one spot, and is less conductive that traditional sterling silver. It is recommended to get any repairs done by a jeweler that is familiar with Argentium silver and all of its properties.

 

 

If you were not able to find an answer about this metal here or anywhere else, please feel free to send me an email halyna@hvjewelry.com and I will do what I can to find an answer for you. Please do the same for any comments, concerns, suggestions or improvements, or any other feedback.

 

I will be releasing 3 handmade Argentium silver pieces of jewelry on Monday, December 16, 2024. One opal pendant, one pink sapphire pendant and one parti sapphire ring. I will send an email once they are available, consider sharing yours here: https://hvjewelry.com/  .

 

Here are some sources that I used where you can find information about Argentium silver:

 

Company website that has a lot of great info and FAQ's:

https://www.argentiumsilver.com/

 

Very detailed and technical PDF:

https://www.riogrande.com/knowledge-hub/instruction-sheets/Working-940-Argentium-Silver/

 

Casting grain I use:

https://www.riogrande.com/product/argentium-940-pro-silver-casting-grain/103000GP/?code=103000